In a whirlwind of rainbow lace and jewelled jacquards, frills and feathers and charms, whilst the minimalists come out to play it seemed Rodolfo Paglialunga was given the hardest task of all to stay true to the founder’s codes of being plain. Alas of course he went above and beyond with creating magnificent pieces using the most spectacular materials to create both sophisticated and minimalist looks, and for the he could be no less than the favourite for this seasons Milan Fashion Week.
This was Armani at his most elegant and subdued, he really revived his silhouettes with the cropped pants, long coats and cropped jackets. The fall show was named ‘black velvet’ and there is nothing that could have been more fitted, the reworked fabric worked gloriously with the prints, which walked effortlessly coherent throughout the show. The cocoon coat was a favourite and back, more over sized and glamorous as ever, paired with the simple wide leg black velvet trousers. The accessories and shoes were perfected (would they be any less than perfect?) and the shoes gave the heeled pointed toe boot a story of their own.
Gucci was an explosion of freedom for the young, as the great Anna Wintour shared, ‘the collection really went against what we’re used to seeing traditionally in Milan.’
New director, Alessandro Michele took to a bold move and completely revamped the collection not long before the runway and boy, did he do good. The show was quintessentially British and that showed through every piece to walk down the runway. Nothing was short of bold and optimism, the jaunty berets and tank-top knits, androgynous crumpled tailoring and studious specs, and most of all Michele took to a nod to the blurred gender lines in his work. It’s certainly a new chapter for Gucci and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for the brand.